I wanted a T1R header for my GD3. But they’re out of production. And no luck finding one used locally. There used to be a lot of options for the GD3. Now it’s really only Megan, DC Sports, Weapon-R. And maybe cheap no name headers off eBay. But by chance I checked out and found they made a GD3 header. I had DT headers in my first car, a 1978 Celica GT. From what I remember they were good quality headers.

So I researched... Megan was common as was DC Sports. Decent reviews. Questionable reviews about the Weapon-R headers regarding fit (no pun intended). So I narrowed down to Megan, DC & the Thorley headers. I decided to go with the Thorley even though I could not find anything online about these GD3 headers being used. $147. shipped. I could have gotten Megan’s for $180. shipped or DC’s for $246. shipped. I pulled the trigger on the Thorley’s based on their web picture and that it resembled the T1R in design. My second choice was the DC Sport.

This finish isn’t bad but the welds aren’t the cleanest. I’m not impressed with the name plate either. It certainly looks strong but esthetics takes a back seat. In short it doesn’t look as clean as the T1R.

Now I just have to install it and finally get my car Hondata tuned.

Adjust Headlight Aim


It was pointed out to me just this past weekend that my passenger side headlight looked way brighter than the driver’s side. And this was during the day when running the daytime running lights. When my headlights full on, I have noticed that the drivers side made a noticeable light spot on the road relatively close to the car. I just never bothered to check the aim.  Ooops. This means it’s been like this since the driver’s side headlight was replaced in my fender bender of December 2011... over one & a half years ago.

It is SO easy to adjust UP/Down aim. On the driver’s side its taking a #2 philips screwdriver and turning counter-clockwise to move the aim up; clockwise to move the aim down. (passenger side is the same).

© DJ Fajardo 2019